Who Needs a Treadmill Desk?

I've been hearing all the research showing it is not good to sit at a desk all day long.  I also wanted to spend more time walking on my treadmill.

So, of course, I had to try to design and make a treadmill desk.  I thought this might just be a prototype, so I just used pine lumber from Home Depot.  If I ever decide to make it fancy, I could re-create it with hardwood, stain, and varnish.  Here is how it turned out:

There is plenty of room for my laptop and some newspapers (which I read on the treadmill, too).  And also a fan, since I am a woman of "a certain age."

If this seems like fun to you, please go to the next page to find the instructions.  It is not so hard. I think the only tools you need are: 

• a saw (unless you can get Home Depot to cut the lumber for you)
• a yardstick or tape measure
• a drill (this really helps -- admit it, you want one.)
• a screwdriver
• some screws and nails (see instructions)
• a hammer 
• Elmer's wood glue
• paint or stain if you want to get fancy

And remember, if you goof somewhere, no one has to know.

If you want to see other furniture items I have made, here's a link:

http://lauriehammons.blogspot.com/2016/05/furniture-i-have-made.html

I like to work out the designs for a project and then see whether I can actually make it.

Instructions to Make Your Own Treadmill Desk

The main idea is to get the desk legs wider than the treadmill and the desktop high enough so you can push the desk as far forward (close to the treadmill) as possible. This will reduce the chance that it will be in your way when walking on the treadmill.

On my desk, for example, the outer edge of the armrests measures 36.5” so I designed the legs to be about 37.5” apart.  This gives me the measurement for Part A (the front desktop support).

Part A = width of treadmill arms + 1"

The height of my treadmill at the control panel is about 45” from the floor, so that gives me the height of the legs (sides), Part C. I wanted to be able to push the desk toward the treadmill as far as possible so as not to interfere with walking, without blocking the control panel.  Fortunately, this makes a comfortable arm height for the desktop when I am walking and using my laptop. (39”)

Part C = Height (from the floor) at the top of treadmill arms or base of the control panel. 

I decided that a (“nominal”) 1x12 was about how wide I wanted my desktop (Part D) to be (actual width 11”) so as not to be in the way.  It is about right.  I have a wall to the right of my treadmill, so I only had about 2.5” that I could add to that side of the treadmill, so I made the other side the same.  Adding the thickness of the legs, this came out to 44”.  It seems plenty wide. 

Part D = the length of Part A + 2" for width of
parts C + any additional length you want. 

Part B, the leg stabilizers, should be no longer than the width of the legs (9.25”) minus the width of Part A (1.5”).  I made mine 7” which leaves a little bit of room at the back of the desktop to move the desk closer to the treadmill.  These parts are what will hit the armrests of my treadmill first, so you may want to shorten them to allow more push-back.  Probably making them another 1” or 1.5” shorter would not impact the stability too much.

Part B = Width of Part C (about 9.25") - width of Part A (about 1.5") - additional room for desk to clear treadmill arms

Assembly

1. Attach Part A to Part B.  I used Elmer’s carpenter’s wood glue and #10 3” screws.  I drilled pilot holes first, but it was still really hard to get the screws all the way in.  Maybe a couple of 2.5” nails would have worked to hold it stable till the glue dries.  Check to make sure that the assembled structure is no wider than Part A; parts B should be flush with the ends of part A, and should be strictly perpendicular, not bow in or out. Also, make sure that the assembled part lies flat with no warping. Allow to dry overnight, if possible.

2.  Attach legs (part C) to both sides of the assembled part A&B.  Make sure that all parts are flush where the desktop will be attached, for best stability.  I attached the legs with #6x1.75” screws and wood glue.

3.  Attach desktop (part D) to parts AB&C, standing upright.  Use wood glue on all top parts of AB&C.  I used 1.5” nails (4 on each side) to hold everything in place till the glue dried, and clamped the front so the desktop would bond to the front stabilizer.  Allow the glue to dry overnight or at least half a day before moving desk into position.

If you want to make it pretty (say, if you are using hardwood), you can use screws or dowel pins and countersink the holes and put ½” diameter dowel pieces in the holes.

4. Desk can be stabilized by drilling a hole at an appropriate place and using a cable tie to attach the desk to the treadmill leg. You can also use an additional 2x2 to make a stabilizing bar between the legs (close to the floor), if desired.  I thought I would need this, but it seems pretty stable on its own.